6 Best Fruit Trees for Home Garden

Vegetable Garden Plants

fruit trees for home garden

From shrubs to flowering plants to fruit bearing trees and vines, a gardener can grow anything provided he has the ideal amount of dedication. fruit trees for home garden. Fruit gardening requires more care and care than other kinds of gardening. However, it certainly is satisfying to see that the trees planted with one own hands bear fruit. Fruit bearing trees and plants bring an immediate aura of joy and color into a garden and add life to any gardening patch. Moreover, having fresh produce to throw in salads or to make pies from is always a joy. Store purchased fruits can not deliver the sort of freshness, richness and juiciness that new fruits have to give. Having one's own fruit create is also a wonderful way to cut back a few of the invoices from the supermarket.
There are a great deal of options to select from as soon as you look up fruit bearing plants to plant in your backyard. Additionally it is important to remember that different fruit bearing plants need very different climatic conditions. fruit trees for home garden. Moreover, different fruit trees have varying requirements concerning soil type, required watering and space. To make the selection process easier for you, we've featured some gardener and famous friendly fruit types below.

Apple
Apple trees are acceptable for plantation in containers or containers as well as in a house garden. Their particularly beautiful spring blossoms have the capacity to transform any garden into a mini breath-taking scenery. For containers, dwarf kind apple trees are suggested. Apple flowers need cross pollination. All that apple trees need for a gardener is that he pick the ideal place to plant them. Apple trees thrive in places where they get maximum sunlight and the soil is moist and well-drained.

Hint: 10 Best Types of Mangoes You'd like to Eat

• Plum

Plums are easy to develop and their compact dimensions and create nature makes them perfect to grow in small backyard orchards. Plum fruit does not take a very long time to ripen and you can have your first batch of produce ready within two weeks of the beginning of the season. The plum fruit tree bears enough fruit that you enjoy during the season without leading to any storage issues. To make things further suitable, pick the "Opal" variety that's self-fertile.

• Cherry

The cherry blossoms can make any garden patch seem elegant. Sour cherries and "Compact Stella" are especially suggested for home anglers because of their self-fertilizing nature. The one thing that will cause some problems are hungry birds seeking to catch a bite of cherry fruit.

• Peach

Who doesn't love peaches? The peach tree species are largely self-fertilizing and the fruit is an absolute feast for the taste buds. Not to mention the colour and freshness that comes to a garden patch by planting a cherry tree. For colder regions, compact and smaller coral trees are also available which can be grown in containers.

• Pear

For home gardens, dwarf pears are recommended because their trees are easier to handle and don't occupy a good deal of space. To acquire a flourishing produce, plant several pear trees to allow for cross pollination. Pear trees flourish when they get maximum sunlight and are planted in well-drained sandy soil which might even be loamy.

• Apricot

Plant an apricot tree in your backyard to observe the difference between fresh and store-bought apricots yourself. fruit trees for home garden.  Apricot tree aside from producing amazing fruit, adds a certain beauty to any garden that it's grown in. Some apricot tree varieties are self-pollinating but most need neighbors for cross pollination.

• Calamondin

Calamondin is a citrus tree with a sweet peel using a tarty flesh that's white in color. Because of the small size, calamondin tree is generally grown in containers. The calamondin tree can withstand cold temperatures around 20°F. The tree itself is a complete delight flaunting deep green leaves and white blossoms.

• Fig

Figs are self-pollinating, can be grown in containers and also need quite less. Figs in some situations require pruning to control height but there are dwarf varieties available that remove this need also. The trees need maximum sun and lots of organic matter for healthy growth.

• Lemon

Hence, the lemon plant should be a very important part of any home garden. Select types like the "Improved Meyer" to find a lemon supply which lasts approximately eight months on the tree. With some effort, lemons could be made to flourish in colder areas also.

• Persimmon

Persimmon fruit is called "the fruit of Gods" that is sufficient reason in itself to grow on in your very own garden. Persimmon fruit turn deep orange when mature while the leaves permit for a spectacular display in the autumn with their striking fiery colors. Persimmons also have dwarf varieties available to cater to the space restriction in a garden. The Persimmon tree however, requires a neighbor to cross-pollinate as it doesn't have the capacity to self-pollinate.

How to Take Care of Your Cherry Tree

How to Take Care of Your Cherry Tree

Be sure to familiarize yourself with the potential or existing pest and diseases issues. Your county Cooperative Extension is an exceptional source for this information. Documents for management and identification, assembled by your state universities, may already exist online. Growers and your local garden centers are also sources of disease and pest control locally.
In places, a consistent and proper spray program can be paramount to your tree's survival. Before they become problematic, potential problems can be avoided with sprays. To get the maximum return on the investment of energy and your time, spraying trees should be performed thoroughly and consistently following the instructions below.

Before starting, read and follow all directions on the labels that you have in hand. Unless the labels on each spray included state which you could do so, don't combine any chemicals.
A home spray tool for trees contains growing-season in addition to dormant-season sprays for diseases and insects. Research your location and find out about disease or any pests which are common locally. Consider planting easy-care , trees, if you understand tree diseases are common in your area.
Note: Contact your local county Cooperative Extension for other suggestions and advice on chemical and cultural control methods if particular sprays provided by Stark Bro's aren't suggested for use in your region.

When to Spray Cherry Trees * Dormant Season (late winter/early spring, before bud break) * Growing Season: Bud Break (development of new growth) * Growing Season: Following Blossom (following petals fall*)

*provides a chance to other beneficials and bees
It bears repeating: Always follow directions printed on the label for more detailed information regarding timing and application procedures.

Timing: Dormant Season, Growing Season -- Bud Break, Growing Season -- Following Blossom

Sort: Largely preventative. Controls.

Program: Follow the tag. Apply when temperatures are between 40ºF and 90ºF, as directed. Pests must be present for spray to work.

Program: Follow the tag. Apply as directed, every 10 days, up to 6 times a year (maximum) as needed. Can be applied up to 7 days.

Period: Growing Season -- Following Blossom

Sort: Mainly active. Pests must be present for spray to work.

Program: Follow the tag. Apply as directed, bi-weekly or weekly as needed. Pests must be present for spray to work.

Program: Follow the tag. Apply when larvae or eggs appear as directed. Pests must be present for spray to work.

Program: Follow the tag. To prevent fruit fall, apply after bloom. Apply as directed, every 7 days, up to 8 times annually (maximum) as needed. Can be applied up to 3 days.

Disease Control Sprays

Bonide® Captan Fruit & Ornamental (wettable powder)

• For: Main scab, black rot (frogeye), botrytis blossom-end rust, Brooks fruit spot, sooty blotch, fly speck, black rot, black pox, botryosphaeria rot, bitter rot
• Period: Growing Season -- Bud Break (pre-bloom, bloom, petal fall), Growing Season -- Following Blossom
• Type: Mainly active, also preventative. Controls and prevents infections.
• Program: Follow the tag. Do not use with hydrated lime sulfur, or oil sprays. Apply as directed, every 10- to needed. Can be used up to 1 day. Not for use in California (contact local county Cooperative Extension for recommended options).

Bonide® Copper Fungicide

• For: Fireblight, anthracnose, bitter rot, black pox, black rot, Brooks spot, flyspeck, powdery mildew, sooty blotch, summertime scab, white rot
• Period: Growing Season -- Bud Break (may include blossom period), Growing Season -- Following Blossom
• Sort: Mainly active, also preventative. Controls and prevents infections.
• Program: Follow the tag. Apply as directed, making sure to adhere to predetermined periods to prevent other and phytotoxicity difficulties.

Bonide® Fung-onil™ Multi-Purpose Fungicide

• For: Botrytis (leaf blight, blast, vine rot), purple blotch, neck rot, downy mildew (suppression), early/late blight, leafspots and foliar blights (such as: anthracnose, black spot, botrytis, shothole, fusarium leafspot, twig blight, brown rot, scab, stagonospora leaf scorch, etc.), blossom spots and blights (such as: botrytis flower place, blossom blight, etc.), stem canker, stem end rot, phytophthora (leaf blight, dieback), powdery mildew, rust (cedar apple rust, cedar hawthorn rust, cedar quince rust, etc.), mummy berry, eastern filbert blight, leaf curl, shothole (coryneum blight), lacy scab (russet) -- and much more
• Period: Growing Season -- Bud Break (avoid use during bloom period to reduce harm), Growing Season -- Following Blossom
• Type: Mainly active. Controls diseases.
• Program: Follow the tag. Apply as directed (period changes) as needed. Avoid spraying on plants during sunny weather and hot. Do not apply before or after use of an pesticide. Pests must be present for spray to work. Controls and prevents infections.
• Program: Follow the tag. Don't apply when temperatures exceed 90ºF. Don't use within 21 days of an oil spray. Apply as directed, every 7- to 10-days, or after rain. Can be used up to 1 day. Pests must be present for spray to work. Controls and prevents infections.
• Program: Follow the tag. Don't apply when temperatures exceed 85ºF. Apply as directed, no more than once within seven days, as many as 2 times annually (maximum) as needed. Can be applied up to 14 days.
• Period: Dormant Season, Growing Season -- Bud Break, Growing Season -- Following Blossom
• Sort: Largely preventative, also busy. Controls overwintering pests on contact and their eggs, and pests. Controls and prevents infections.
• Program: Follow the tag. Oil-based use in to reduce the potential for leaf burn. Apply as directed, every 7- to needed.
• Period: Growing Season -- Pre-Bloom (for early disease prevention), Growing Season -- Following Blossom (for insect and disease control on contact). Pests must be present for spray to work. Controls and prevents infections.
• Program: Follow the tag. Apply as directed, every 7 to 14 days. Don't use more than one time per day. Do not use over 10 times a year. Don't apply when temperatures are below 45ºF. Don't apply to wilted or otherwise stressed plants. Apply in early morning or late evening burn. Test prior to use for plant sensitivity.
• Diseases: Black spot, powdery mildew, rust, sooty mold
• Period: Growing Season -- Pre-Bloom, Growing Season -- Following Blossom, Dormant Season
• Sort: Largely preventative. Controls.
• Program: Follow the tag. Apply as directed needed. Don't apply when temperatures are below 32ºF (no heating limitation for use -- exceptional for an oil spray). Do not use during drought or to wilted or otherwise stressed plants. Test prior to use for plant sensitivity.

Best Way to Pruning Cherry

The Way to Grow Cherry Trees

• Have confidence in knowing that not everyone will prune the exact same way -- including the experts.
• In the best interest of your tree, it is preferable to do some pruning versus no pruning.
• If an cherry tree is left unpruned, it might not become profitable, it won't grow as well, and -- in some cases -- it may not be encouraged to grow at all.
• There are three main reasons you should prune your cherry tree: its survival, stimulation and forming.

Make sharp, clean cuts close enough (about 1/4-inch away from the next outward-pointing bud) so that you won't leave a clumsy stub that is hard to heal over. Stay far enough above the bud so it won't die back. Slant the cuts and the growth will grow. Narrow, V-shape crotch angles in the limbs are an open invitation to splitting later on when your tree is currently encouraging a large fruit crop. For your tree's branches, choose wide two o’clock angles and 10 o’clock.

Fruit-Thinning

From the rest of the buds, stronger, more growth stimulates in addition to the survival advantages. After a single season , a cherry tree you prune will be larger, with more powerful branching than a tree that is unpruned.

• To reduce limb breakage
• Increase the size of the remaining fruit
• Boost fruit color and quality
• Stimulate floral initiation for next year's crop

Pruning is a really significant part cherry tree care and maintenancemany individuals think the task overwhelming. It doesn't have to be! Keep these things in mind when you set out to prune your cherry trees:

Pruning Tips

• First dormant season (a year after you plant the tree): Eliminate the central leader and direct the tree growth toward three or four powerful scaffolds. Choose. Maintain about 6 inches of elevation between the scaffold branches, keeping the lowest branch at least 18 inches in the floor. Leave some branches on the back to encourage trunk strength. Prune back scaffold branches.
• Second dormant season: Prune back fast new shoots but leave twig growth, which is future fruit-bearing wood. If needed choose and encourage scaffolds. Each year, cut out a part of the fruiting wood that is elderly to keep rejuvenating the tree. Prune back last year's stems to half their length each.

Pruning angles

Equally important to the benefits above, your cherry tree has to be pruned to provide a form that is strongly structured. The organic shape a cherry tree takes on is not necessarily the best for its maximum fruit production. Stark Bro trees are pruned in the nursery row for proper shaping to get you started and corrective pruning must continue at home. It'll be a sensible task involving small cuts if you keep up with your pruning and shaping each year.

Form and Structure

Stimulation

Our specialists have your tree for you when your cherry tree arrives from Stark Bro's. Because of this, you do not need to prune it at planting time. The pruning is to remove any damaged or broken branches or roots. Always prune sweet cherry trees into a "Central Leader" or "Main Leader". This structure promotes growth, which supports the canopy and keeps the fruit from becoming overexposed to sunlight and elements. This arrangement keeps the canopy open to light and air circulation, which helps protect fruit and sustain quality. Any time a tree is transplanted, and when your tree is dug up from our fields to be shipped to you, the root ball loses many of its fine feeder roots. These hair-like roots are important to the process of absorbing moisture and nutrients . Pruning, in this instance, helps balance the top growth of your tree with the root system, giving time to the roots to re-establish in your yard to encourage top growth and growth. There are good reasons to fruit that is thin: Home gardeners can thin trees by hand if needed. Throughout the spring, abort or cherry trees may will start to drop underripe fruit. This is a process that allows the tree to mature the crop load that is rest of the. If not adjusted through thinning, cherry trees may bear biennially (fruits only every other year) or bear heavily one year, then keep a relatively light crop the next year. Thinning may seem counterproductive in theory, but it is a benefit to your cherry crop in the long run. Every branch has pointed in various directions. Make your cut above a bud that is aimed outward because you need vigorous new growth to spread out and away from the middle of the tree. These are located on the underside of the branch. This assists a construction that is solid is developed by your cherry tree, keeping it productive and strong . Sometimes if the season isn't ideal pruning has to be done. If a branch is broken by the wind or by a load of fruit, emergency treatment is necessary. When taking action due to injury, prune to clean any ragged edges up; making.

Pruning to a bud

As you might in artful pruning styles like espalier -- trees that are unbranched are perfect if you want to have more control over which branches are allowed to develop. Prune whips back to 28- to 36-inches above the ground at planting time. After 3 to 5 inches have grown in length, pick a fire to become the leader and the rest become the scaffold limbs of the tree. Plan to prune your trees each year. In north and Zone 6, you should wait until late winter. A fantastic reference book, such as Pruning Made Easy, may be invaluable for providing visuals and answering questions you may have during the pruning procedure. It does not benefit the tree to wait until dormancy to prune dead damaged, or diseased limbs or to eliminate growth like suckers and watersprouts. These should all be completely removed as soon as you see them.

When to Fertilize Cherry Trees

How to Grow Tomatoes

When to Fertilize Cherry Trees

• In nutrient-rich soil, you can withhold using fertilizers before your cherry trees start bearing fruit (average: 4-7 years for sweet cherries; 3-5 years to get pie/sour/tart cherries). If your new cherry trees don't put on a few inches of green growth consider fertilizing starting the spring.
• Ordinarily for cherry trees, once a year is sufficient -- employ a low-nitrogen mulch in early spring, about two or three weeks prior to the tree blooms. You can fertilize after bud break, but by no means than July. For any fertilizer application instructions, always refer to the information printed on the label of your product. Be mindful that advisories on fertilizing may be in effect during certain times of year. For the sake of the local environment, please adhere to these constraints. Each year, test the soil to find out if the nitrogen levels appear low, and what it requires, then employ a fertilizer in small amounts a couple of weeks prior to bud break in early spring. Mulch your trees since weeds will compete with your trees for nutrients, and keep weeds at bay.

To prevent the chance of injury as the growing season winds down, do not fertilize past July 1st. Cherry trees also need micronutrients in the soil, which help make the macronutrients accessible to the tree. For example, molybdenum helps fix nitrogen to the ground. Copper and zinc prevent misshapen leaves and color mottling. Calcium is another important micronutrient that trees thrive on that enhances leaf and fruit quality. The easiest way to add micronutrients is by incorporating a great, balanced fruit tree fertilizer that states micronutrients are a part of the formula or aged compost.

Micronutrients

Fertilizing is an excellent way to replenish the nutrients in your soil, especially nitrogen. Nitrogen encourages green vegetative growth, which is exactly what its fruit-bearing years before your tree reaches you wish to market.

Fertilizing New Trees

Fertilizing Established Trees

About Fertilizers

• Fertilizers -- both synthetic and organic (naturally derived) -- are soil amendments tagged with a "guaranteed analysis" of nutrients such as Nitrogen (N), Phosphate (P), and Potash (K). They are not technically fertilizers, although they're used like fertilizers. You can make your own soil amendments, such as compost, out of food or garden scraps, or even get manure, and other soil amendments from a trusted local source.
• In general, cherry trees thrive when macronutrients such as Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), and Potassium (K) exist. Nitrogen helps promote vegetative growth (branches and leaves). Blossom and root development encourages. Potassium/Potash accounts for systems supporting its health and the effectiveness of the natural disease-resistance of the tree. A fertilizer that's formulated for use on cherry trees provides the nutrients as they become established, these trees participate in during their initial years in the ground.

Before applying any fertilizers always test your soil. Different soils can have varying amounts of native components necessary to support tree growth and development. If you find your soil lacks any necessary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphates, potash, etc.), be sure to pick a fertilizer that supplements the soil's nutrient deficiency.

Macronutrients

Cherry trees are light feeders and prefer a fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 10-15-15. Be careful to not over-fertilize, or you may produce a tree that's unbalanced, which may affect fruit production and leave the tree vulnerable to disease and pests. Nitrogen, phosphorus/phosphates, and potassium/potash would be the "large" macronutrients cherry trees need to grow normally. When soil is deficient they are present in soil, but may be added. Nitrogen is the nutrient utilized by developing trees; synthetic or organic compounds must moves throughout the soil, is leached off by normal growth and replace it. The main source of nitrogen is decaying organic matter. Signs of deficiency in trees include spots on leaves, leaves that are narrow or shrunken and pale or reddish colored leaves.

Watering Cherry Trees

How to Care For Your Cherry Trees
Watering Cherry Trees

General Watering Guidelines

• If the growing season brings about an inch of rainfall every 10 days or so, you should not need to provide any extra waternonetheless, if it gets really dry in a week's time, it is possible to offer your cherry blossom tree a great, thorough soaking. The best way to do it is to let your garden hose trickle around the root zone. This gives a chance to the water. Offer your tree water to soak the ground all over the roots.
• It's important to remember that, even when you're in the middle of a "brown-lawn drought", you should not water too much. After every 7- to 10-days (or even once every two weeks) is plenty. Worse than dry roots are waterlogged, drowning roots.
• Although a little depression in the soil assists by preventing runoff during growing-season watering, it is important to bring the dirt around the tree up to the amount of the surrounding soil for the winter. If this settled soil is not filled in, water could freeze the back around and injure the tree.

Keep in mind, many regions of the country have restrictions on water usage. Be sure to adhere to the restrictions of state or your county when watering cherry trees, and contact your regional department. Unless your cherry trees are growing in an area where irrigation is usually necessary for growth (desert regions, drought regions, containers, etc.), you probably won't have to water your cherry trees more than what the rain naturally supplies after the first growing year. Until then, follow these guidelines to receive off your new trees . Note: These guidelines are far from rigorous, so just make sure to water as necessary. Cherry trees don't need lots of water each day; however, if you find that the environment of your location or your dirt need more frequent watering to prevent adjust your watering schedule. Look closely at your trees and the dirt they are planted in for when water is needed by them as the reference.

Selecting The Proper Place to Plant New Cherry Trees

Growing Cherry Trees

Where you want to plant your trees, do you know? Prevent many future problems by considering all aspects of the planting spot, such as:

• Cross-pollination
• Sun and Decent soil
• The immediate environment
• Spacing
• Room for future plantings

Cross-Pollination

Many of our cherry trees are self-pollinating, meaning your mature tree will bear fruit without needing another cherry variety's pollen; however, additional nearby (within 50 feet) cherry trees of a different variety can enhance fruit-set and yield. Remember, two of the exact same variety will not work for cross-pollination (with the exception of seed-grown cherries) and sweet cherry trees and sour cherry trees aren't recommended pollinators for one another.
Cherry trees work well for smaller spaces, because another cherry tree isn't necessary for fruit production. Consider planting among those cherry trees that are self-pollinating that are popular:

• Balaton® Cherry (pie/sour/tart)
• Starkrimson® Cherry (sweet)
• Stella Cherry (sweet)
• Stark® Surecrop™ Cherry (pie/sour/tart)
• North Star Cherry (pie/sour/tart)

Sun, Soil Type and Drainage

Cherry trees thrive in a location that gets full sun and has a soil. Sunlight helps keep fungal issues, and also is critical to quality and fruit production. Keep this in mind when choosing a location for your new cherry trees.
Good soil drainage is critical to maintain a tree's roots healthy -- and roots are the foundation of a healthy tree. You need to choose a website for your tree, if your native soil is made up of heavy clay that keeps water after rainy weather. Conversely, if your website has fast-draining sandy soil, then your tree need more frequent watering and may suffer drought stress. We do not recommend planting trees in rocky or thick, pure-clay soils. Consider improving the soil if you can't plant elsewhere.
If the soil of your yard isn't the best, take hearttrees react well to soil additives like compost or fertilizers and can be adaptable. The way you amend your soil depends heavily on your locationcommunication with your county Cooperative Extension is a step. In general -- to assist with water distribution -- you may add coir like our Coco-Fiber Planting Medium into a cherry tree's planting hole, or mix in one-third sphagnum/peat to the soil at planting time.
As an alternative to all of that digging, you can:
Plant your tree that is new at a 5-gallon container, to start. You can "pot-up" cherry trees into successively larger containers as the trees outgrow them.
Cherry trees, with their breathtaking blossoms, may be a landscaping advantage -- so choose a planting site with this in mind. Imagine your cherry tree that is new as a tree, and think through everything:

• Are there any utility wires or some other obstacles overhead?
• Are there any underground cables, pipes, irrigation systems, utilities or other lines to avoid?
• Can there be a sidewalk, driveway, or base within the array of your cherry tree's mature spread?
• Might your cherry blossom block the view of something that you want to see, once it's fully grown?
• Will neighboring trees be in the way, or block sunlight from your cherry trees as they grow?
• Even a couple of years after planting, a cherry tree can be very tough to successfully transplant, so take the time to plant it in just the right place the first time!

Space Wisely

Growers frequently ask about the recommended planting distances for cherry trees to keep them away from patios, sewer lines, water pipes, etc.. Patios will not be an issue because the soil beneath them is compacted and dry, and the roots will not be encouraged to grow into this area. Conversely sewer and water lines are normally wet, which will encourage tree roots if planted too closely to grow them around.
A distance that is intelligent is somewhere beyond the projected maximum spread, which is equivalent to the mature height of the cherry tree you decide to plant of your tree. Our recommendations are below:

• Dwarf: 8 to 14 feet
• Semi-Dwarf: 12 to 18 feet

Space for Future Plantings

You're planting them at a location that is new, or if you are new to planting trees, it's sensible to begin with just a few. Later on after you have enjoyed the benefits of growing your own cherries you might want to broaden your orchard. Always err on the safe side and leave room for other fruit trees, future trees, berry plants, and other garden plants. You'll be happy you did.
Dwarf Sweet Semi-Dwarf Sweet, 15-18 feet Standard Sweet, 18-25 feet
Dwarf Sour 12-15 feet, Semi-Dwarf Sour 15-18 feet, Standard Sour

How to Plant Cherry Trees

Planting Cherry Trees

Planting Cherry Trees

Successfully establishing a young cherry tree begins with your planting site and planting method. After a cherry tree is well established, it requires very little assistance to grow and bear fruit.
Cherry trees need fertile, balanced soil for good development, so before you plant, test the soil where your trees will live -- including the dirt pH. Refer to the section on Soil Preparation for tips on testing your soil.
Take a look at the established trees and plants around the website. Are they growing nicely? This will help give you an idea of the success you can expect with new plantings in the same area. Don't forget to steer clear of heavy clay soil or any soil that is poorly drained, particularly if you're planting sweet cherry trees.
Cherry trees may be planted even when temperatures are quite cool, particularly if they arrive bare-root and dormant. If a hard frost is expected, it's advisable to delay plantingfor a while until temperatures become more moderate. Do not expose roots to temperatures which are freezing or below. Generally, as long as your soil is workable, it's fine to plant.

Steps to Planting Cherry Trees

Planting Bare-root Cherry Trees

• Before planting: soak the cherry tree's roots in a bucket or large tub of water for 1 to 2 hours. This keep the roots from drying out while you dig the planting hole. Avoid soaking roots for more than 6 hours. Remember: do not expose roots to freezing temperatures (or below) before planting.

• Dig the planting hole wide and deep enough so the root system has lots of room to easily spread and grow. Maintain the more nutritious topsoil in a separate pile so you can set it in the bottom of the hole, where it will do the most good.
• To loosen the soil, combine aged/rotted manure, garden compost, coir or peat moss (up to 1/3 concentration) to your pile of topsoil. The peat moss should either be baled sphagnum or granular peat. Notice: Peat is acidic (has a low pH), so if you use this instead of neutral coir, it may affect the soil pH around the roots. Coir, such as our Coco-Fiber Planting Medium, can be added instead of peat -- or just work in 2 inches or more of organic material with the existing soil.
• Place the cherry tree in the center of the planting hole with its origins down and spread out. Holding onto the trunk to keep it vertical, backfill the hole, putting the topsoil back in first. Important: keep the graft union (the noticeable "bulge" in the lower trunk) 2-3 inches above the ground for dwarf and semi-dwarf types.
• Fill in the dirt carefully around the roots, tamping it down firmly as you refill the planting hole. This will remove air pockets which could damage the roots.
• Especially if you're planting on a slope, make a rim of soil around the planting hole about 2 inches above ground level. This is known as a "berm" and it works to catch water so that it can soak in, rather than run off and cause soil erosion. Spread the soil evenly around tree. Cherry trees which are grown and shipped in our Stark® EZ Start® 4"x4x"10" bottomless pots are a result of our continuing quest for supplying you with the best trees using a robust root system. By following these simple directions, you will be sure of getting your new potted cherry tree off to the best possible start.
  
  • Before planting: When your cherry tree arrives, carefully take it out of the package. Your potted tree has been watered before shipment and should arrive with moist soil around the rootsnonetheless, it does require another drink when it arrives in your dwelling. Be sure the water reaches all of the roots, all of the way to the bottom of the container. If you can't plant your tree immediately, keep the roots hydrated and maintain the tree in a sheltered location until you're able to plant. Do not place your potted cherry tree in a bucket of water. This may cause the roots to rot and weaken, or even kill the tree.
  • Your potted cherry tree is ready for planting as soon as it arrives. To remove the tree from its temporary container, simply grasp the sides of the pot and carefully slide out the tree. If the tree's roots do not easily slide out of the container, you may want to gently pry the interior edges of the container away from the main system, and loosen it until the roots slide freely in the pot.
  Note: do not plant the plastic Stark® EZ Start® bottomless pot in the ground. It's not meant to break down over time as your cherry tree grows, and it will cause root restriction, injury and may even be fatal to the tree. The pot your tree arrives in is just meant to be a temporary container.
  
  • While some potting soil might shake loose, most of it must stay around the cherry tree's roots. Gently separate, untangle, and spread out the tree's roots and place it, soil and all, in the prepared planting hole. Backfill the hole with topsoil, same as you would a bare-root cherry tree (see above). Water thoroughly.
  • Your potted cherry tree could have come with a bamboo stake, which helped straighten the tree as it grew in its pot. We suggest that you maintain the tree staked when you plant to help keep it growing straight. You may remove the bamboo stake and replace it with a different tree stake, if you would like. A deep soaking with about a gallon of water is perfect. If a soil test determines that fertilizer is necessary, then it is strongly recommended that you wait a couple of weeks after planting to fertilize fresh cherry trees to protect their sensitive roots. If planting in the fall, wait until spring rather to apply fertilizer.
    

    Mulch

    Apply 2-3 inches of organic material like wood bark (instead of an inorganic substance, like rocks) around the root zone of your cherry tree. Mulching helps discourage weeds and protect against evaporation, water pooling and freeze injury around the trunk going into winter. In the fall, double the mulch layer or add a layer of straw for winter protection.
    Notice: Rodents and other small gnawing critters could benefit from mulch that is applied too thickly. They may chew the tree's bark as a snack -- a sort of injury that can be deadly, particularly to new cherry trees.
    One last point: Please make certain to remove the nametag from your cherry tree. As the tree grows, this little piece of plastic can choke off its flow, causing damage like girdling and even tree death. If you want to keep the tag in your tree, retie it loosely with soft twine and make certain to keep it from becoming restricted as the tree grows.